“I cannot imagine that Belperron’s jewelry isn’t as compelling and revolutionary now as it was in 1932,” said Nicholas Landrigan,
the man relaunching the storied brand he fell in love with at twelve
when his father (who happens to own Verdura) introduced him to it.
“Anyone we take through the archives ends up with an odd sort of crush
on her,” he added, referring to the original Parisian designer, Suzanne
Belperron. “She was kind of a badass.”
Indeed, Mme Belperron’s
rebel nature and avant-garde aesthetic was admired by Elsa Schiaparelli,
Colette, Diana Vreeland, and the Duchess of Windsor. A chalcedony,
sapphire, and diamond flower brooch or sapphire, peridot, and tourmaline
turban ring may look simply elegant and charming today, but back in the
fully fledged world of geometric, Art Deco, curvilinear pieces like
that were a brutal kickback against conformity. “She was an artist,”
continued Landrigan, “and artists have a perversity to want to turn
things on their head.”